Koos Mobius Spiral Scarf

by Linda Chang Teufel

 

This is an really fabulous project. It’s a unique mobius scarf in that it doesn’t have a long straight seam, rather a long spiral seam. It is ingenious construction, as you might expect from Koos. Once you make one, you’ll want to make it again out of different weights of fabrics.

The picture at the top of this post is of the two that Koos made for me. The blue one is made of 4 different widths of silks pieced together on straight grain to form the base rectangle. That is then attached to very thin batting. The black scarf is wool jersey with dotted wool jersey strips and rayon brocade strips on top. There is no batting on this version. Here’s me in one I made for a friend:

Consider the paper tube on the inside of a paper towel roll as you’re putting this together. That’s what I did when I was figuring out the construction. (Who knew cleaning your kitchen could be so useful?) I’m going to walk you through a scarf I made using using Japanese cottons on shantung with no batting.

First, let’s study a humble paper towel roll:

The inner tube is a spiral roll which when twisted becomes a mobius strip. I tried out my construction on muslin first until I figured how to piece this all together.

Width and length measurements are approximate. Use this as a rough guideline:
Width 24-30”
Length 60-70”
For my version I decided on a 25”x70” cut size.

This was another of those projects that had me digging through my stash, visiting my old fabric friends. I chose a number of coordinating fabrics:

Let’s get started!

1. Cut a base fabric of approximately 25”x70”. All seams will be either 1/4” to 1/2”. You decide.

2. Place some strips of coordinating fabric on the base fabric. My strips were 3”-5” wide. Stitch down, close to the edges.

3. Cut, then make some binding. It doesn’t have to be bias since it is a straight line. I used the Clover tape maker to make two different 1/2” bindings.

4. Sew the bindings over the raw edges of the strips, covering the stitches. This is the finished rectangular base. Here’s what you should have so far:

5. Now, place this base wrong side down. Fold up one edge 90 degrees as shown here:

6. Fold the other end (top) down at an angle so that it lines up with the first side:

7. Pin in two places to hold edges in place with cut edges matching and right sides together:

8. Start sewing from that point to the end, making sure cut ends are lined up on top of each other. Stop when you are about 3” from the end.

9.  Turn it around leaving a 5” space unsewn. This will be the “turning opening”. Sew the rest of the length, stopping a few inches from the end again.

10. Press the seam open, then pull it right side out through the ends.

11. Lay the scarf flat on the table and put one 24” end over the top of the other end with right sides together. Pin.

12. Stitch across the ends.

13. Turn this inside out through the turning opening. Resume sewing the rest of the spiral seam through those ends. Pull this right side out through the turning opening.

14. Invisibly hand stitch the opening closed. VOILA! Your own designer scarf.

A quick note: You can piece your fabrics into a base rectangle using slightly wavy lines too. Cut them into slight curves and stitch them down. If you do this you’ll need bias cut tape for the gold edge trim. Good luck!

Koos in ORNAMENTS Magazine and SNEAK PEAK!

The latest issue of ORNAMENTS magazine has a gorgeous 6 page article on Koos.  All the photos of his studio and fantastic garments are wonderful!  Our book, Koos Couture Collage, is referenced and I was surprised to be quoted in the article!

I've been to Koos' workroom many times. It is such an inspirational place full of interesting photos, objects, and fabrics. Read the article and you’ll get a glimpse of what it’s like to be there yourself.

Koos doesn’t teach very often, but this September in Michigan you can ake one of his rare workshops. He’ll be teaching at the American Sewing Expo. Check out:  www.americansewingexpo.com.  It's a fabulous, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get some honest critique on making art to wear from a world-famous fashion designer.

Last, I have a special sneak peek from Vogue Patterns for my blog followers of Koos' next pattern.  This scalloped coat is available in October and is Vogue #1213.  I can't wait to get this pattern. I'm already collecting coordinating wools!

PS. If you're looking for any out of print Koos Vogue patterns, email me and I may have it.

To see more of Koos and his work go to his website @ www.koosnyc.com.

Arach-NO-Phobia: Interlude with Jane Sassaman

How I love the internet. I was visiting virtually with my dear friend, Jane Sassaman, on her blog, Jane Sassaman’s Idea Book. It’s my idea book, too. She lives so far away, but I can hang out in her studio from my studio courtesy of the world wide web.

Jane is incredible. She’s tirelessly creative. To watch her work, to talk to her about work, is just a joy. I was “virtually visiting” with her this weekend and chanced upon two things that just delighted me.

Yes, ladies and gentlemen, sit down. There are spiders involved. I’m not generally a fan, but Jane is so talented that I might NOT stomp the next spider I see crawling across my deck. Well, not immediately stomp it.

First, a picture of Jane working on an absolutely gorgeous quilt:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And these. She’s gone mad with spiders!

Only Jane could make something I generally scream and run away from so artistic.

I noticed on Jane’s blog a link to one of my favorite time-wasting, wallet-emptying sites, Etsy, and a vendor named 100 Billion Stars. She makes cute things using Jane’s fabrics. Do I need this lovely bag?

I want to need this skirt, alas, I fear it is 10 years, okay 20 years too young for me, but oh, how adorable:

Does the fabric not just SCREAM summer, cold drinks in sparkly glasses at sunset?

Enough. Back to work. Post coming soon about Noriko Endo’s book, which went off to the printer last week. Thanks, as always, for stopping by!

Mid-week Potpourri

I’m taking a quilting class today, which is like a vacation. I’m away from the computer, the phone, the vacuum cleaner…I’ll learn something new and hang out with creative friends. No airport, cancelled flights, or checked bags. Perfect for a steamy June weekday!

In the meantime, one of my authors, the fabulous Barbara Olson (click here for her website), sent me a link to this blog:

We of Artistic Vision

I’ll say artistic! Fantastic. I’d love to get to know these talented women. The quilt they did in blocks for the Becker Lake Photo Challenge is exactly the kind of project I wrote about in in my book last year, Quilting Party. Since that book was published, I’ve heard from so many readers about their “Quilting Party” projects. One of my photographers, Vicki Rentel, just told me about a project at work a coworker put together for another coworker whose husband recently died. It’s been the talk of the office, and has really been a “hands on” way of supporting a dear friend. Lovely. (photo via We of Artistic Vision)

Last but not least, over the weekend I was digging through one of the innumerable clear plastic boxes in my studio, looking for some ideas. It’s therapeutic for me to dig through my stash, especially my stash of Asian printed fabrics. What do you know? I chanced upon a blouse I made years ago. It was done, but for the buttons and the label. I threw on the buttons and added my brand new labels, made by Heritage Woven. Now, who doesn’t love to finish a project, especially one that takes all of 10 minutes and means something brand new to wear?

Do you Koos?

picture via wikipedia 

As my beloved readers know, I was in New York City a few weeks ago. While I was there, I stopped by to see Koos van den Akker at his studio. I love to see him, his assistants, and staff whenever I'm in the city. Like "The Big Apple", Koos' studio is vibrant, exciting, and thriving. Hanging out there is inspirational and fires up my creative juices. Koos is a dear, old friend, too, and I love having a chance to get caught up with him.

The next edition of Ornament Magazine (Volume 33 #4) should feature a six page interview with Koos. Look for that!  Koos fans--I might be #1--can't get enough of his clothes and vintage photos of his work. His designs and clothes are so interesting and never become dated; they are an exuberant and timeless mix of color, prints and fabrics.

I was lucky enough to get a guided tour of what Koos is working on now. Among other fabulous items, this scalloped jacket is selling very well at his Madison Avenue boutique.  The inspiration from this came from a dear friend who was hospitalized. Koos wanted to make her a designer bed jacket!  Isn't this creation fabulous?

 

 

Koos keeps everybody up-to-date with projects via Facebook. Regardless of what you think about the Cosby sweaters (many of which were sold on Ebay for charity a few years ago) , check him out.

 

I wrote a book about Koos a few years ago. While I'm generally loathe to plug myself on the blog, there aren't many books about Koos around, and mine--Koos Couture Collage--happens to be on sale. Inspiring photos of his designs and sewing techniques in the back.

Koos has been designing patterns for Vogue for years. I decided a few days ago to list a few out of print ones from my stash. Oh my,I lost a few hours over the weekend trying to figure out how to list an item on Ebay. Contact me if there is a specific one you've been looking for. Later we will post a preview sneak peek at his new scalloped coat pattern for sale in October...it's to DIE FOR! Watch for it on this blog!